As soon as anyone dresses up in or even mentions leopard print, it is guaranteed to leave an impression and start a debate.

Popular for elaborate dresses, suit linings and men’s socks alike, leopard print has been equal parts passionately adored and maligned with a somewhat unexpected level of zeal.

The striking leopard pattern has been the symbol of almost everything, all at once; it is equal parts luxurious and gauche, sophisticated and daring, a symbol of opulence and rebelliousness.

To explain why it has such a marmite-like reputation of being loved and hated in equal measure, it is worth exploring why and how it entered the fashion world in the first place.

From Royalty To Flappers

There has always been a historic association with animal print and royalty due to the relatively high price animal pelts had throughout much of history. 

Rugs, carpets and robes made with animal print were often, therefore, a symbol of status, and this association continued as increasingly exotic prints became more accessible.

With the rise of mass production of patterned clothing, previously inaccessible styles such as animal print became more accessible, being primarily used for dresses, thick coats and accessories.

Possibly the first to turn leopard print into a couture staple was Christian Dior, where it would be a part of his infamous “New Look” fashion.

At the same time, it was also brought to worldwide attention thanks to films such as 1946’s Tarzan and the Leopard Woman, which made it a major part of pop culture.

Even still, it was primarily a high-class display of wealth, as worn by celebrities such as Eartha Kitt and Jackie Kennedy. It proved to be highly influential, connected to sophistication, sensuality and independence.

From The Corridors Of Power To Counterculture

The 1960s were the turning point for the popularity of leopard print, as it became both widely available and a symbol of rebellion in the process.

Part of this change was a consequence of its own popularity; when then-First Lady Jackie Kennedy wore a coat made of leopard fur, the popularity of the garment increased so much that it made leopards an endangered species, ultimately leading to the banning of leopard hunting.

This led to a change in how leopard print was used, aided in no small part by the countercultural movement of the 1960s.

Whilst determining the first rock star to wear leopard print is difficult, Keith Richards of the Rolling Stones was a leading innovator, in no small part because he often swapped clothes with his long-time girlfriend Anita Pallenberg.

It would not be long before David Bowie, Freddie Mercury and Debbie Harry would follow suit, and this would create one of the quintessential styles of rock and roll alongside leather, lace and denim.

Constantly Changing, Always Striking

One of the most unusual aspects of leopard print, and why it has always divided opinion whilst remaining extremely popular, is that it always means something, even if that meaning seems to cycle more rapidly than other fashions.

It went from being a counterculture staple to a shorthand for brashness, but just as quickly as the latter reputation cemented itself, it became an ironically earnest symbol of the grunge scene of the 1990s, with the likes of Kate Moss and Kurt Cobain inspired by Debbie Harry and its powerful reputation.

This constant switching from being the centrepiece of style to a popular pariah only intensified through the 2000s, and at this point it has become a neutral wardrobe staple, capable of going with almost any other look and style depending on how it is used.